How Tussar Silk Is Made: From Cocoon to Saree
Share
Tussar Silk has a charm like no other—its natural golden sheen, earthy texture, and lightweight feel make it one of India’s most beloved handloom fabrics. But have you ever wondered how Tussar Silk is actually made?
From the forests where silkworms thrive to the skilled hands of weavers, each Tussar saree carries a story of nature, tradition, and craftsmanship. In this complete guide, we take you through the beautiful journey of Tussar Silk—from cocoon to saree.
What Makes Tussar Silk Special?
Before we begin the process, here’s why Tussar Silk is truly unique:
Naturally golden, honey-toned shine
Breathable and lightweight—perfect for Indian climate
Distinctive textured surface
Eco-friendly production
Handcrafted by skilled tribal and rural artisans
Now, let’s dive into how this extraordinary fabric comes to life.
1. Silkworm Rearing: The Beginning in the Forests
Tussar Silk comes primarily from wild silkworms (Antheraea mylitta) found in the forests of Jharkhand, Bihar, Odisha, Chhattisgarh, and West Bengal.
✔️ Silkworm Habitat
These silkworms feed on leaves of:
Arjun trees
Sal trees
Asan trees
Their wild diet gives Tussar its unique rustic, coarse texture and deeper shades.
✔️ Rearing by Tribal Communities
Local tribal families collect cocoons from the forests, keeping alive ancient silk-rearing traditions that are generations old.
2. Cocoon Formation: Nature’s Golden Treasure
A single silkworm spins a cocoon around itself using protein-rich silk fibres.
Each cocoon contains:
Thousands of meters of silk filament
Natural golden-brown hues
A firm, sturdy outer shell
The golden tint of Tussar Silk comes directly from these wild cocoons.
3. Cocoon Harvesting
Once the silkworm completes its lifecycle, the cocoons are collected carefully.
Two methods are used:
-
Reeled Tussar – cocoons are collected before the moth emerges, creating long, continuous fibres.
-
Spun Tussar – used when moths have already emerged, resulting in shorter, textured fibres.
Spun Tussar gives the fabric a distinctive, coarse texture that many saree lovers adore.
4. Boiling and Softening the Cocoons
The harvested cocoons are boiled to soften the sericin (the natural gum).
This step helps:
Separate fibres
Prepare them for reeling
Reduce brittleness
Boiling also enhances the natural shine of the fibre.
5. Reeling: Unwinding the Silk Thread
Once softened, each cocoon is gently unwound in a process called reeling.
Reeling produces:
Long, continuous threads
Strong, durable yarn
Smooth texture
Reeled Tussar is usually used for premium sarees with a softer drape and fine weave.
6. Spinning: Creating Textured Tussar Yarn
Some cocoons break or have open ends. These are used to create spun Tussar yarn.
Spun yarn characteristics:
Shorter fibres
Slightly rough
Rustic and earthy
Perfect for Ghicha or raw Tussar sarees
This natural imperfection is what gives Tussar its artistic charm.
7. Dyeing the Yarn: Adding Colour and Life
Tussar Silk takes beautifully to dyes—both natural and chemical.
Natural dyes used include:
Indigo
Madder
Turmeric
Pomegranate
Haritaki
The dyeing process involves:
Boiling yarn in dye pots
Air drying
Repeating for deeper shades
Many artisans prefer eco-friendly, plant-based dyes to maintain the fabric’s purity.
8. Warping and Setting Up the Loom
Once dyed, the yarn is arranged for weaving:
Steps include:
Stretching the warp threads
Aligning them on wooden beams
Hand-tying broken threads
Preparing the loom for intricate patterns
This is a tedious process that demands patience and skill.
9. Handweaving: Where the Magic Happens
Handweaving is the heart of Tussar Silk production.
Weavers create:
Borders
Motifs
Pallus
Geometric or floral patterns
Using traditional wooden looms, each saree may take 2–15 days depending on complexity.
Popular weaving techniques include:
Plain weave
Extra weft motifs
Jamdani-style weaving
Zari work integrated patterns
Every saree woven is a piece of art.
10. Finishing Touches: The Saree Comes to Life
Once the weaving is complete, the saree undergoes:
Washing
Ironing
Quality checking
Tassel-making
Packaging
The final saree carries the rich aroma of natural silk and the imprints of hands that shaped it.
Why Understanding the Process Matters
Knowing how Tussar Silk is made helps you appreciate:
The effort of tribal families and artisans
The value of handcrafted fabrics
The beauty of slow, sustainable fashion
The importance of supporting handloom weavers
Each Tussar saree is not just clothing—it is the result of nature, skill, culture, and heritage coming together.
Final Thoughts
From wild forests to elegant wardrobes, Tussar Silk travels a remarkable journey. Every saree holds the warmth of the sun, the richness of tradition, and the dedication of artisans who keep India’s handloom heritage alive.
Whether you’re a saree lover, a fashion enthusiast, or a buyer seeking timeless classics, understanding the making of Tussar Silk deepens your connection with this exquisite fabric.